1A. Start at 6” inches in from the edges
1B. Space remaining brackets 18” – 24” apart.
2A. POWER TOOLS: Use a Top Bearing Flush Trim router with a 1/2" deep cutting length and trim the excess wood out of the mounting surface.
2B. MANUAL TOOLS: Use a hand saw and cut along each line to a depth of 1/2”. Then using a wood chisel (1” is a good choice) remove the excess wood between the lines you just created.
Be sure to remove all the material in the mounting channel so you have a clean, level channel for the bracket to be seated in.
3A. IMPORTANT NOTE: You must make sure you are securing these brackets to a stable surface suitable for supporting the weight that will be applied. If securing to cabinetry, It is highly recommended that these brackets are secured to a 2x4 or 2x6 stud or a header. Blocking behind your cabinet carcases is a must.
3B. Place the bracket into the mounting channel and affix the bracket to the cap using ALL of the included #12 wood screws. Screw the flange to the backside cap of the knee wall. This Forward L flange will screw into both the back side of the header and/or the vertical stud.
Iron Counter Support Brackets can carry significant loads but they must be securely fastened to the mounting surface with continuous blocking, or double-stud construction. When mounting into wood studs ”toeing” into the stud will ensure that all screws are fully engaged. If toeing is not an option align the bracket so that 1 top and 1 bottom screw are fully engaged. When installing into metal studs you must block the steel studs using wood studs by either piggy backing or sliding a wood stud into the C channel metal stud.
Weight capacity is based on evenly distributed static loads.
Bracket spacing is based on the weight being applied and the countertop material being used. Different countertop material can carry different spans. Consult your countertop supplier if you have any questions or keep your spacing at no more than 24" on center be safe with any application.